The online bird magazine for pet owners, breeders and bird lovers

Celestial Parrotlets

Blue Parrotlets

Blue parrotlets

Celestial Parrotlets are the most common species of parrotlet kept in captivity but they are still relatively unknown as a pet species in the UK. They are very common in the USA and elsewhere in Europe. They are delightful parrots, with all the personality and attitude of their larger relations but requiring much less space. Toys and other stimulation are a must as these little parrots are very intelligent.

Common Name Celestial Parrotlet
Latin Name Forpus coelestis
Colours Many colours mutations are established, including blue, American yellow, American white, pied, dark factor, albino and lutino
Lifespan 20 to 30 years
Size 10cm
Natural Habitat Ecuador and Peru
Diet Seeds, greens and flowers
Sexing With the exception of the ino mutations, sexing is done by colour and wing markings.

Feeding

 

Parrotlets love their food and will eat an enormous amount for such small birds. Parrotlets do best on a seed-based diet, which should contain little if any sunflower seeds. Ideally it should include a mixture of other smaller seeds such as plain canary, groats, linseed and buckwheat. Supplements are required for all birds on a seed-only diet and should include multi-vitamins (including D3) and calcium. Even birds on complete diets will often still require a calcium and D3 supplement. Parrotlets also relish fresh fruit and vegetables such as apple, orange, grape, melon, pomegranate, broccoli, peas, lettuce and carrot. Foods are often more readily accepted when they are grated or very finely chopped. Soaked / germinated seed is especially good for parrotlets. Remove all fresh food at the end of the day, or earlier if it has spoiled or it is very warm. Millet sprays are also appreciated.

Clean water must be provided daily, and changed more often if required. Position perches out of the way of water bowls to help to reduce soiling from droppings and food waste.

Housing, Accessories & Cleaning

Parrotlets are very social, but you must be careful because they are quite capable of seriously injuring or even killing one another. If you are home a lot and your parrotlet can spend a lot of time out of the cage, then one can be housed on its own. Otherwise you are better to keep a true pair (male + female). Two young females can sometimes be housed together, but as they get towards breeding age this can be a problem – even more so for two males. If you keep more than one pair they must be housed separately from each other and ideally out of sight of each other (e.g. with a solid divider between cages).

The size of the cage required will depend on how often you are able to allow your parrotlet time out of the cage. Flight is important for keeping birds fit and healthy, so if you are unable to allow them to fly regularly out of the cage then you should provide a flight cage. If you can allow exercise out of the cage, then a smaller cage can be used – though it should still allow plenty of room for movement and toys. The more room you can give your parrotlet the happier it will be.

Cages, aviaries, bowls and solid surfaces (walls and floors) should all be cleaned regularly with a bird-safe disinfectant. We recommend F10 or Avisafe from The Birdcare Company. Both are available in a ready to use spray or a concentrate. Cleaning should be done weekly, unless there is a lot of debris or a build-up of droppings, in which case spot cleaning should be done more regularly.

Indoor birds require additional lighting, known as UV or “full spectrum” lighting. A range of solutions are available, including screw-in bulbs which fit into standard E27 fittings, right up to stand-alone overhead lights or florescent tubes. The product you choose will depend on your budget, home and the number of birds that you have.

Breeding

Parrotlets are not always easy to breed, but once they are settled and breeding they will produce a couple of clutches each year and are generally quite good parents. They are sexually mature at around 6 months old, but it is advisable to wait until hens are at least 12-18 months old before allowing them to breed. The hen will lay 2-8 eggs which are incubated for around 18-21 days. As the eggs are laid in succession, if the hen starts sitting as soon as the first egg is laid then the chicks may hatch over a week or so. The young are fed by both parents, who will offer them regurgitated soak seed and egg food. The chicks fledge at around 5-6 weeks and are usually independent at around 7-8 weeks old.

Health & Handing

A hand-tame bird can be taught to ‘step up’ onto a finger or stick for easy handling. For non-tame birds, cup one hand firmly over the bird when it is on the floor or the side of the cage to hold in place, then gently lift up with your first and second fingers each side of the head. Hold the bird firmly but without squashing it. An aviary net can be used to catch them in large enclosures. Parrotlets have quite a strong bite, so take care to keep your fingers out of reach if your parrotlet is not tame.

To assess the health of a parrotlet, look at the obvious signs first. Are the feathers bright and shiny or dull and dark? Are the eyes and nostrils (nares) clear? Is the bird fully feathered or does it have bald patches? All birds are prone to respiratory problems, and keeping the housing clean is the first step to prevention. Watch for excessive sneezy, blocked nostrils or runny eyes and nostrils. Poor feathering and brown or barred patches on feathering can be a sign of stress, but also of poor nutrition, particularly a lack of Vitamin A. Increase fresh vegetables and offer a multivitamin supplement. Find a good avian vet before you purchase your parrotlet – you may need to be prepared to travel some distance.

Equipment List

Here are a few of the staples that we recommend for parrotlets:

Catalina Tate
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