Zebra Finches
Zebra finches are small, active birds with plenty of character. They are easy to keep, easy to breed and generally trouble-free as pets, whether indoor or outdoor. They mix well with other small species so are often included in mixed aviaries.
| Common Name | Zebra Finch |
| Latin Name | Taeniopygia guttata |
| Colours | Many colours mutations are established, including fawn, penguin and phaeo. |
| Lifespan | Up to 7 years |
| Size | 10cm |
| Natural Habitat | Australia |
| Diet | Seed and greens |
| Sexes | Male: Cock Female: Hen In the wild-type colouration the male has orange cheek patches. More difficult with other colour mutations. DNA sexing may be required. |
Feeding
Zebra Finch
Zebra finches can be fed on a commercial foreign/tropical finch mixture. This will ideally contain mixed millets, rapeseed, plain canary and sometimes other small seeds such as niger and grass seeds. Finches will also take fresh fruit and vegetables such as apple, orange, grape, melon, pomegranate, broccoli, peas, lettuce and carrot. Foods are often more readily accepted when they are grated or very finely chopped. All fresh food should be removed at the end of the day, or earlier if it has spoiled or it is very warm.
Supplements are required for all birds on a seed-only diet and should include multi-vitamins, including D3, and calcium. Even birds on complete diets will often still require a calcium and D3 supplement. Finches should also be provided with grit – either fine oyster or a mixed grit containing oyster shell, coral and charcoal.
Clean water must be provided daily, and changed more often if required. Positioning perches out of the way of water bowls will help to reduce soiling from droppings and food waste.
Housing, Accessories & Cleaning
Zebra finches are social and must be housed with others of the own species or with species with similar requirements such as Bengalese finches or canaries. Zebras can be kept as house pets, and they need a cage which is big enough for them to fly in as they are unlikely to be tame enough to be let out for exercise. Bar spacing should be no more than around 7mm to prevent them from getting their head through the bars.
If you are keeping your zebra finches in an outdoor aviary, then then you must make sure that it is wind-proof and predator-proof. The mesh should be small enough not to allow mice or wild birds into the aviary, and the structure should be strong enough to withstand chewing from rats and digging from foxes. Indoor quarters must also be provided as shelter from wind, rain and extreme cold. Nest boxes should be provided even for non-breeding colonies, as they will use them to sleep in at night and shelter from the worst of the weather during the day.
Cages, aviaries, bowls and solid surfaces (walls and floors) should all be cleaned regularly with a bird-safe disinfectant. We recommend F10 or Avisafe from The Birdcare Company. Both are available in a ready to use spray or a concentrate. Cleaning should be done weekly, unless there is a lot of debris or a build up of droppings, in which case spot cleaning should be done more regularly.
Indoor birds require additional lighting, known as UV or “full spectrum” lighting. A range of solutions are available, including screw-in bulbs which fit into standard E27 fittings, right up to stand-alone overhead lights or florescent tubes. The product you choose will depend on your budget, home and the number of birds that you have.
Breeding
Zebra finches are free-breeding and one of the easiest species even for novice birdkeepers. They are sexually mature at around 3 months old, but it is advisable to wait until hens are at least 6 months old before allowing them to breed. In a colony aviary this may be difficult in practice! The hen will lay 4-8 eggs which are incubated for around 14 days. As the eggs are laid in succession, if the hen starts sitting as soon as the first egg is laid then the chicks may hatch over a week or so. The young are fed by both parents, who will offer them regurgitated soak seed and egg food. The chicks fledge at around 3 weeks and are usually independent at around 4-5 weeks old.
Health & Handing
Zebra finches are not usually hand tame, so handling will only be necessary to perform health checks, administer any medication or to move them from one location to another. An aviary net can be used to catch them in large enclosures, a cupped hand over the bird while it is on the bottom or the side wires of a cage will be sufficient. Hold the bird firmly but without squashing it.
To assess the health of a zebra finch, look at the obvious signs first. Are the feathers bright and shiny or dull and dark? Are the eyes and nostrils (nares) clear? Is the bird fully feathered or does it have bald patches?
All birds are prone to respiratory problems, and keeping the housing clean is the first step to prevention. Watch for excessive sneezy, blocked nostrils or runny eyes and nostrils. Poor feathering and brown or barred patches on feathering can be a sign of stress, but also of poor nutrition, particularly a lack of Vitamin A. Increase fresh vegetables and offer a multivitamin supplement.
Find a good avian vet before you purchase your finch(es) – you may need to be prepared to travel some distance.
Equipment List
- Cage or aviary suitable for finches
- Foreign finch mixture
- Multivitamin supplement
- Grit – fine oyster-shell or mixed
- UV lighting (if indoor)
- Liquid calcium supplement
- Book on zebra finches
- Aviary net
Outside, inside, wild or domesticated.
There’s something about birds that makes the world seem more alive and makes my life richer.
The past
It began with bird-watching trips with my parents from the age of 4 and continued throughout my childhood with trips to zoos and nature reserves both at home and abroad. I could name over fifty species of exotic waterfowl while I was still at primary school (cinnamon teal anyone?) and my fascination never waned.
Despite the plethora of other pets at home (cat, stick insects, hissing cockroaches, gerbil, dwarf hamsters), birds never featured in the line-up. Perhaps partly because my Dad accidentally trod on his own pet budgie at the age of 11?
The present
My first pet birds were chickens. A wedding present from friends, we were given three beautiful blue-laced bantam Wyandotte pullets. These were soon followed by three friendly-but-dim light Sussex bantam pullets and two buff rock bantam pullets. Hens have been a permanent feature in our garden ever since.
My husband and I purchased our first parrot in 2011 – Jo, our blue-fronted Amazon. By this point we had established our own bird supplies shop in Boldon http://www.gardenfeathers.co.uk, so we knew she could be with us 24/7.
The flock soon expanded to include a rescue cockatiel (Paul), a yellow-thighed caique (Skippy), a donated African Grey (Jimmy), two rainbow lorikeets brothers (Bert and Ernie), several pairs of Celestial Parrotlets and most recently a pair of black-headed caiques.
The future
I don’t know where life will take me, but if there’s one thing I’m certain of, it’s that birds will always be a part of my past, present and future.
Catalina Tate
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