Cockatiels

Cockatiels are one of the most popular parakeets kept as pets. They are easy to keep and can be handled by (careful) children as well as adults. They can be mixed with some other species for an aviary, such as budgies, finches and canaries.

Cockatiel

Feeding

Cockatiels can be fed on either a seed or pellet based diet. A seed mixture should contain mixed millets, plain canary, groats, a small amount of black or striped sunflowers and sometimes other small seeds such as niger, linseed and buckwheat. Ideally a pellet diet should be one that is specific to parakeets. Supplements are required for all birds on a seed-only diet and should include multi-vitamins (including D3), and calcium. Even birds on complete diets will often still require a calcium and D3 supplement. Cockatiels should also be provided with grit – either fine oyster or a mixed grit containing oyster shell, coral and charcoal.

Cockatiels will also relish fresh fruit and vegetables such as apple, orange, grape, melon, pomegranate, broccoli, peas, lettuce and carrot. Foods are often more readily accepted when they are grated or very finely chopped. All fresh food should be removed at the end of the day, or earlier if it has spoiled or it is very warm.

Clean water must be provided daily, and changed more often if required. Positioning perches out of the way of water bowls will help to reduce soiling from droppings and food waste.

Housing, Accessories & Cleaning

Cockatiels, like all parakeets, are very social birds. If they are not going to have constant human company, then consider keeping a pair – either a true pair or two of the same sex will usually get along with no problems.

The size of the cage required will depend on how often you are able to allow your cockatiel time of the cage. Flight is important for keeping birds fit and healthy, so if you are unable to allow them to fly regularly out of the cage then you should provide a flight cage or outside aviary. If you can allow indoor exercise then a smaller cage can be used – though it should still allow plenty of room for movement and the height and width must be sufficient that the cockatiel does not touch bottom and top with the tail and head crest, and the sides when wings are outstretched. The more room you can give your cockatiel the happier it will be.

If you are keeping cockatiels in an outdoor aviary, then then you must make sure that it is wind-proof and predator-proof. The mesh should be small enough not to allow mice or wild birds into the aviary, and the structure should be strong enough to withstand chewing from rats and digging from foxes. Indoor quarters must also be provided as shelter from wind, rain and extreme cold.

Cages, aviaries, bowls and solid surfaces (walls and floors) should all be cleaned regularly with a bird-safe disinfectant. We recommend F10 or Avisafe from The Birdcare Company. Both are available in a ready to use spray or a concentrate. Cleaning should be done weekly, unless there is a lot of debris or a build up of droppings, in which case spot cleaning should be done more regularly.

Indoor birds require additional lighting, known as UV or “full spectrum” lighting. A range of solutions are available, including screw-in bulbs which fit into standard E27 fittings, right up to stand-alone overhead lights or florescent tubes. The product you choose will depend on your budget, home and the number of birds that you have.

Breeding

Cockatiels are quite free-breeding and one of the easies species even for novice bird-keepers. They are sexually mature at around 6 months old, but it is advisable to wait until hens are at least 12-18 months old before allowing them to breed. In a colony aviary this may be difficult in practice!

The hen will lay 2-8 eggs which are incubated for around 18-21 days. As the eggs are laid in succession, if the hen starts sitting as soon as the first egg is laid then the chicks may hatch over a week or so. The young are fed by both parents, who will offer them regurgitated soak seed and egg food. The chicks fledge at around 5 weeks and are usually independent at around 7-8 weeks old.

Health & Handing

A hand-tame bird can be taught to ‘step up’ onto a finger or stick for easy handling. For non-tame birds, cup one hand firmly over the bird when it is on the floor or the side of the cage to hold in place, then using both hands around the back and wings you can lift up safely. With smaller birds one hand may be sufficient. Hold the bird firmly but without squashing it. An aviary net can be used to catch them in large enclosures.

To assess the health of a cockatiel, look at the obvious signs first. Are the feathers bright and shiny or dull and dark? Are the eyes and nostrils (nares) clear? Is the bird fully feathered or does it have bald patches? All birds are prone to respiratory problems, and keeping the housing clean is the first step to prevention. Watch for excessive sneezing, blocked nostrils or runny eyes and nostrils. Poor feathering and brown or barred patches on feathering can be a sign of stress, but also of poor nutrition, particularly a lack of Vitamin A. Increase fresh vegetables and offer a multivitamin supplement. Find a good avian vet before you purchase your cockatiel – you may need to be prepared to travel some distance.

Equipment List

• Cockatiel seed mixture
  • Deli Nature 5* Australian Parakeets
  • Deli Nature Premium Parakeets
  • Countrywide Parakeet & Cockatiel
  • Deli Nature 69 Parakeet with Sunflower
• Cockatiel pellet diet
  • Psittacus Mini Maintenance Formula
• Food treats
  • Seed sticks or bars
  • Millet sprays
• Multivitamin supplement
  • Aviform Avigold Advance
  • Birdcare Company Daily Essentials 3
• Grit – fine oyster-shell or mixed
• UV lighting (if indoor)
• Liquid calcium supplement
  • Aviform Calciform
  • Birdcare Company Calcivet Liquid
  • Book on cockatiels
  • Medium padded net
  • Cage or aviary suitable for a cockatiel

• About
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Catalina Tate

I’m Catalina and I’ve always loved birds.

Outside, inside, wild or domesticated.

There’s something about birds that makes the world seem more alive and makes my life richer.

The past

It began with bird-watching trips with my parents from the age of 4 and continued throughout my childhood with trips to zoos and nature reserves both at home and abroad. I could name over fifty species of exotic waterfowl while I was still at primary school (cinnamon teal anyone?) and my fascination never waned.

Despite the plethora of other pets at home (cat, stick insects, hissing cockroaches, gerbil, dwarf hamsters), birds never featured in the line-up. Perhaps partly because my Dad accidentally trod on his own pet budgie at the age of 11?

The present

My first pet birds were chickens. A wedding present from friends, we were given three beautiful blue-laced bantam Wyandotte pullets. These were soon followed by three friendly-but-dim light Sussex bantam pullets and two buff rock bantam pullets. Hens have been a permanent feature in our garden ever since.

My husband and I purchased our first parrot in 2011 – Jo, our blue-fronted Amazon. By this point we had established our own bird supplies shop in Boldon http://www.gardenfeathers.co.uk, so we knew she could be with us 24/7.

The flock soon expanded to include a rescue cockatiel (Paul), a yellow-thighed caique (Skippy), a donated African Grey (Jimmy), two rainbow lorikeets brothers (Bert and Ernie), several pairs of Celestial Parrotlets and most recently a pair of black-headed caiques.

The future

I don’t know where life will take me, but if there’s one thing I’m certain of, it’s that birds will always be a part of my past, present and future.

Catalina Tate

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